This 1964 build up has been donated to High Gravity Production as an educational tool for those new to a hydraulic Suspension.

I started taking pictures since the beginning of this build up. I live up north where there are NO lolo's rolling around, which meant, I had to do ALOT of homework. I saved some images that helped me along the way and took pictures of techniques that I learned while doing this ALONE.

Alright ....first thing's first, I started my project before Richard's book (The Science of Hydraulic Suspension) was released. I ended up purchasing it (first 100 buyers - signed copy) as soon as he gave the "okay." Before you do ANYTHING, get the book and read it. I keep it in my garage like a bible, it's VERY informative and has lots of great images that depicts correct installation tips!!

Below is a picture of my project (1964 Impala - 2 door sedan). This image is the car's stock height with NO hydraulics....just smaller rims.

When I first started the project I wanted a basic 2 Pump - 4 Dump setup that is dependable and chose the below layout as a benchmark.

Here's what I bought and how a 2 Pump - 4 Dump kit arrives.....

I decided to run 48 Volts (4 batteries) to power the system.....

I was completely unaware how to plumb the system until I did some research. I found these diagrams that were VERY detailed and helped me alot.

First thing I did was make sure all of the parts were there, we all know how shipping can be.
Then I plumbed the pumps/dumps. When doing this, if this is your first time like it was mine, make sure you get the check valves installed the correct way.This image depict CORRECT check valve installation. (The BALL pushes in towards the DUMP valve. It is spring loaded back into position)

Ahhhhhh, now we're making progress. Both of these images display the pumps "Dry-Plumbed."

I decided to install the front cylinders first. I didn't need to remove the rims but decided to anyway's to pack the wheel bearing and install new brake cylinders and brake pads. I've already installed new lower Ball Joints and control arm bushings in the summer!!!! I will do uppers during this install. All a person would've needed to do was remove the upper ball joint, which is what I did anyway.

After removing the old coils and shocks I marked the holes that needed to be drilled to accommodate the new cylinders.

BEFORE - You'll notice that the hole is offset to the outer portion of the car and towards the rear of the car. This is to get it as far away from the upper control arm bar as possible.

This image shows how you should put the cylinder, donut, cup, and coil together. It's a complete diagram but only pay attention to the coil/cylinder assembly commonly known as "Coil Under"

After the holes are drilled the front end goes together pretty quick.

I started on the rear and got it put back together.... .I installed all 3 new u-joints, new carrier bearing, new pinion seal, welded the cups up and painted the axle.

I also removed the fuel tank just for a little extra clearance AND because I ended up torching out the rear holes. I ended up going through 6 bits and only drilled 2 holes. So for those of you starting a project, make sure......1 you have REALLY good bits or 2 you torch the holes out. Once the tank was out, I flushed it and painted it too. I cleaned the fuel sensor and added some fresh fuel line. These images show where I marked & drilled the holes for the rear cylinders.

While I was under the car I ended up notching out the frame 10 - 12 inches. This is required so when you lift the rear end of the car, the drive-shaft does not bind on the frame

Routing the hoses were pretty easy, the images below display where I cut holes in the floor for the hoses going from the back to the front.

After I cut the holes I started on installing the rear cylinders. I used the "Coil Over" technique and started with hyme-joints

This images shows you a coil over and coil under.