This 1964 build up has been donated to High Gravity Production as an educational tool for those new to a hydraulic Suspension.

After I got the rear end put back together I started on the battery rack. First you need to determine a couple of things. Will you run 1 bank of batteries or 2 banks of batteries. To start with I went with one bank of 48 volts (4 batteries). I determined how big the racks would be and how many batteries they would hold and welded the battery rack up. After the battery rack was complete I layed it on my trunk floor and marked where I need the holes to be in the trunk floor and cut them out. It's recommended that you weld your Pump & Battery rack to your frame for a couple of reasons - #1 - it's a good source for your grounds & #2, when the car flexes when you're hitting switches, it takes the pressure off of the body!!

While I was at it, I decided to make & mount my pump rack. Now I know that I said the pump rack should be mounted to the frame (and it should), I decided to mount it to the trunk floor ONLY because I knew it was a temporary configuration.

Here we see it finally coming together. I have the pumps mounted and the battery rack welded to the frame.

Here's a pic of my FIRST layout

Here's the car fully dumped

Here's the rear end locked up (10 inch cylinders)

Here's the car fully locked up (8's in front & 10's in rear)

Since I did not changed any major suspension components, I started running into some issues.

I started by getting rid of the BIG speakers (15" Rockford Fosgates) and downsizing my stereo system.

Mid way through the upgrade I SWITCHED THE LAYOUT AGAIN.....

There's a couple ways to fix the problem above which is cause by the Panhard Bar or Track Bar. I decided to install a 3 link suspension and remove the Banana Bar & Panhard Bar. I started again by doing research and asking questions, then I came up with these measurements.

In the midst of reconfiguring I managed to complete the 3 link suspension. I personally do not like stick welding but it's what I have to work with. I think the beads will be okay

Here's a shot of the 3 link installed and in action. Notice how nice the pinion angle lines up. Also keep in mind that my rear end was not left messy or dirty the way you see it in the picture!!

Since I created the 3 link and decided to modify my suspension I decided to go with longer cylinders in the rear. I upgraded from 10's to 12's!! Oh yeah, did I forget to mention I started the body work also? I'll post pics of that later >>>>>!!!!

After seeing the higher lockup, I decided to add a 3rd pump, in which I reconfigured AGAIN. So I tore everything out and started over. Here's what my stock carrier bearing and u-joints looked like when I removed them.

So I decided to make my own carrier bearing and bought a drive-shaft with a slip yoke

I purchased 3 HEAVY DUTY U-Joints from Napa

I pulled the trailing arms off and re-enforced them with 3/16 steel on all three faces of the inside and added new polyurethane bushings and Magic Balls www.blackmagichydraulics.com

Then I started on the new battery rack(S) and pump mounts!!!!!!!!

Finally everything starts coming together. The next few shots are my most recent photos but they are about 4 months old. I've detailed a few things and changed some MINOR components. Perhaps Richard will post the new photos when I get them to him soon...

6 switches for the hydros.....one for a lil' sumthin' - sumthin'

Fully Locked up (8's in front - 12's in rear)

Upgraded to 14" cylinders in the rear.

Single Dump Y-Block (Italian Block) up front.....@60 Volts